The “Pragmatic Nobles” who used diplomacy and Church alliances to rule for 400+ years. Dynasty that would learn to survive by being much ‘smarter’ than the rebel Alberico but… TOO much
Vacation and Travel Talk
Travel news, information on the best places to visit in Italy, where to go for vacation suggestions of travelers, personal trip experiences, and HIKING: follow me on my exploration of the most exciting adventures
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ATTENTION!
28 February 2026
19 February 2026
The Knights Without Fear And… (1)
Every castle has its ghost. At Castellengo, the ghost isn’t a specter drifting through corridors in the small hours — it’s a political tragedy, sealed into the limestone like a man walled up alive.
Part I: The Exile’s Gamble — From the Tiber to the Alps
The story does not begin here.
It begins five hundred kilometers to the south, in the sun-hammered hills of Umbria, where a man named Alberico stood in the shadow of the Castello di Monterone and grasped, with the cold clarity that only younger sons ever know, that none of this would ever be his.
Continue reading https://exegi.substack.com/p/the-knights-without-fear-and-1
How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Fog
Winter has finally arrived in Biella, and I find myself in the peculiar position of wanting snow. After 22 years of southern living, this is character development I never saw coming.
Snow in Biella is a rare guest — arriving perhaps once or twice, staying for a polite day or two before disappearing, as if it had forgotten an important appointment elsewhere.

But this year? This year, I’m craving it
The Almost-Adventure
The walking group chat has been exploding with snow photos — gorgeous, postcard-perfect shots that make you want to lace up your boots immediately. So last Saturday, after a fresh snowfall dusted the city, I thought: Today’s the day. I’m going to the mountains.
I had errands to run first. No problem. Plenty of time for a little mountain walk afterward. Then I looked up.
Above the peaks: massive, brooding, seriously uninviting dark gray clouds.
My enthusiasm deflated like a sad balloon. Where exactly was I planning to go in that?
Continue reading https://exegi.substack.com/p/how-i-learned-to-stop-worrying-and
06 February 2026
The Pagan Magic of the Walnut Tree
There’s something about Italy that makes people want to believe in magic again. On witch-hunts, wish-granting, and what happens when modern women chase ancient magic

There is a walnut tree that grows over a gorge in the mountains between Salerno and Benevento. I know this because I danced around it with four other women on a Thursday afternoon, and the universe answered back.
31 January 2026
The Ghost World Between Mountains

The weather in Biella was miserable—not just cold, but the kind of cold that settles into your bones and whispers that winter has come to stay.
23 January 2026
The Shepherd's Mathematics or The Miracle of Natural Food
I was writing a text for prospects, agricultural companies, offering them a promotion of their products – vegetables, meat, honey, wine... Suddenly, I had the idea to tell it to you as a parable...

She doesn’t count in euros or dollars. She counts in hours—the hours between when her husband’s hands pulled a zucchini from the earth and when it lands, still warm from the morning sun, in your canvas bag.
“Quarantotto,” she says. Forty-eight.
This is the number that matters. Not the price per kilo, but the hours. Because science has proven what these mountain people have always known in their bones: a vegetable begins to forget itself the moment it leaves the soil. Vitamins flee like swallows before winter. The life force drains away, oxidizing into something lesser, something that merely looks like food.
At forty-eight hours, half the vitamin C has vanished into thin air. The folates—those delicate compounds that build our blood—scatter like autumn leaves.
But here, in this corner of Piedmont, where time moves differently, =>>>
Continue reading https://exegi.substack.com/p/the-shepherds-mathematics-or-the
14 January 2026
Snowlit Milan City Chant
Snowflakes dance on lamplight gold,
City veins in silver cold.
Windows glow, a whispered spell,
Evening’s beauty, pure and fell.
Breathe the frost, embrace the night —
Winter’s kiss, pure delight!
11 January 2026
To Pass Through the Fog
I wrote this story many years ago, when I was (yet again) in the situation described here. It's happened to me many times. But I still believe it's written accurately.

A small, small, impossibly small man stood before a wall of fog.
It seemed the entire world lay ahead of him—a vast, impossible Universe rising from the earth at his feet and stretching into infinity. These clouds, so voluminous, like immense feather pillows, these billowing masses of fog.
Around him and behind, there was nothing. No one. He stood alone before the infinite. Leaving everything THERE.
There, far away, where no road led back, remained earthly life—so simple, so flawed, so comprehensible and familiar.
He caught himself not fully grasping the finality of this step.
Continue reading https://exegi.substack.com/p/to-pass-through-the-fog
The Land Where Survival Was an Art Form

“You can’t,” I said.
The car had stopped beside us on the hill. We looked up at the ruin—another forgotten Avogadro fortress, crumbling behind rusted gates and NO TRESPASSING signs.
The driver nodded and drove off, but the question stayed with me. How do you get in? And more than that: why are there so many castles here that nobody can get into, that nobody even knows about?
It was one of those winter days you wait for all season—actual sunshine, breaking through weeks of fog and rain. I had maybe three hours before the light died, and I was desperate to escape my own head. So I did what any reasonable person does: I opened Google Maps and typed “castles.”
Three popped up. Close together. A loop I could drive in an afternoon.
I grabbed my keys.
Continue reading https://exegi.substack.com/p/the-land-where-survival-was-an-art
01 January 2026
A Tale of Tiny Steaks and Smaller Pastries
