The “Pragmatic Nobles” who used diplomacy and Church alliances to rule for 400+ years. Dynasty that would learn to survive by being much ‘smarter’ than the rebel Alberico but… TOO much
Travel news, information on the best places to visit in Italy, where to go for vacation suggestions of travelers, personal trip experiences, and HIKING: follow me on my exploration of the most exciting adventures
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28 February 2026
19 February 2026
The Knights Without Fear And… (1)
Every castle has its ghost. At Castellengo, the ghost isn’t a specter drifting through corridors in the small hours — it’s a political tragedy, sealed into the limestone like a man walled up alive.
Part I: The Exile’s Gamble — From the Tiber to the Alps
The story does not begin here.
It begins five hundred kilometers to the south, in the sun-hammered hills of Umbria, where a man named Alberico stood in the shadow of the Castello di Monterone and grasped, with the cold clarity that only younger sons ever know, that none of this would ever be his.
Continue reading https://exegi.substack.com/p/the-knights-without-fear-and-1
How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Fog
Winter has finally arrived in Biella, and I find myself in the peculiar position of wanting snow. After 22 years of southern living, this is character development I never saw coming.
Snow in Biella is a rare guest — arriving perhaps once or twice, staying for a polite day or two before disappearing, as if it had forgotten an important appointment elsewhere.

But this year? This year, I’m craving it
The Almost-Adventure
The walking group chat has been exploding with snow photos — gorgeous, postcard-perfect shots that make you want to lace up your boots immediately. So last Saturday, after a fresh snowfall dusted the city, I thought: Today’s the day. I’m going to the mountains.
I had errands to run first. No problem. Plenty of time for a little mountain walk afterward. Then I looked up.
Above the peaks: massive, brooding, seriously uninviting dark gray clouds.
My enthusiasm deflated like a sad balloon. Where exactly was I planning to go in that?
Continue reading https://exegi.substack.com/p/how-i-learned-to-stop-worrying-and
06 February 2026
The Pagan Magic of the Walnut Tree
There’s something about Italy that makes people want to believe in magic again. On witch-hunts, wish-granting, and what happens when modern women chase ancient magic

There is a walnut tree that grows over a gorge in the mountains between Salerno and Benevento. I know this because I danced around it with four other women on a Thursday afternoon, and the universe answered back.