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21 August 2025

Following Water: Along Italy's Most Romantic Canal

There's something magical about discovering this gem of Italian engineering that has been quietly doing its job for over a century.


Sometimes the most profound romance isn't found in grand gestures, but in the quiet perfection of water finding its way home.

I fell in love with a ditch.
Not just any ditch, mind you, but Italy's most distinguished ditch – the Cavour Canal, a waterway so elegant it makes the Venice canals look like they're trying too hard. Picture this: 85 kilometers of crystalline water flowing through the heart of Piedmont, past rice paddies that shimmer like scattered emeralds, under ancient stone bridges, and through engineering marvels that would make a Roman aqueduct architect weep with envy.

I began my aquatic adventure in Chivasso, a sleepy town in the Turin province, where the canal takes its first breath from the Dora Baltea River. Standing at the intake point, watching the water begin its gentle journey toward Novara, I couldn't help but think this is exactly the kind of place where Italians perfect the art of “il dolce far niente”, the sweetness of doing nothing. A lone fisherman sat nearby, his patience as infinite as the Italian bureaucracy, waiting for something to bite. At the same time, the morning sun painted everything in that particular golden light that exists nowhere else but Northern Italy.

Continue reading this story: 

https://exegi.substack.com/p/following-water-along-italys-most

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